30 June 2008

Family Vacation: Venice/Venise/Venezia

I think Venice might have been my favorite stop on our 10-day tour o' Europe (well, just a tiny bit of France/Italy, but cool). There really are no other cities like it and I think it is gorgeous. Even if the canals are filled with the most disgusting water on the face of the earth. They don't tell you this, but, oh lord. Revolting. I mean, it makes sense. How clean are normal highways? Same thing, just with boats.


Venetian public transit... I didn't really think through this ahead of time, but I was really struck when i got to venice by the fact that the taxis and the "buses" are all boats.



A close up of St. Mark's Basilica on... well, St. Mark's Square (San Marco)



The Bridge of Sighs. It's the bridge that connects the Doge's Palace to the prison. The story is that condemned criminals would pass from receiving their sentences in the Palace to the prison by this bridge and they'd look out the little windows and sigh because they knew it was their last view of the outside world.



They take counterfeiting purses/goods very seriously. We were eating lunch at a café here when all of a sudden there was screaming and commotion... Apparently the police had arrived to try and catch the people selling the counterfeits and the sellers ran off through the crowds, knocking people down etc. They managed to get away, but the Police did collect a lot of goods that they'd left behind.



mmm. Canals.



I just loved this scene. The majestic Rialto bridge in the background, the Gondolier station in the fore-ground with a Gondolier and an old italian man arguing/discussing to the side. Perfection.



LOTS of pigeons on St. Mark's Square. Apparently, there are so many that the authorities put population control drugs/whatnot into the pigeon feed that you can buy to feed them. Tuppence a bag, folks.



The Rialto bridge with a view of our hotel also (the red building)



Gondola-ing!



A view from the front of the gondola. Go figure. A very peaceful, if expensive (for my grandparents) experience. Our gondolier was really nice and chatty and the weather was perfect... Though, the water did kind of stink sometimes.



A view of the Grande Canal from the middle of the Grande Canal.



Took a stroll with Dad after dark... found some cool graffiti on a bridge.



Yes. This is the inside of the Venetian post office. I feel that having to come here would make waiting in that ridiculous USPS line every time MUCH more enjoyable. Seriously.



Inside the prison connected to the Doge's palace. This would be my cell, apparently.



Posing with Dad and Jess at St. Mark's Square

29 June 2008

Family Vacation: Paris

We had... 2 nights in Paris, I believe. But, we had 2 full days. The first full day, I spirited Jessica away to took her around to the main monuments, then the second day Jess, Dad and I went to Sacre Coeur/Montmartre before meeting up with the grandparents to catch our night train (of death) to Venice.


L'Arc de Triomphe, which was right by our hotel in the 16e arrondissement



Paris by Night i.e. a view of the Tour Eiffel from the Trocadero



First stop on Jess and I's Paris tour: The Eiffel Tower (she didn't come when Dad, G-pa and I went the night before)



We were so afraid it was going to rain.



We actually didn't go UP the tower... the line was SUPER long, and we both didn't feel like waiting.



Notre Dame de Paris... where is started to sprinkle a bit, but not rain.



Inside the Cathedral



The Centre Georges Pompidou, where we did, in fact, go to escape the rain.



Night in the middle of the Champs-Elysées. I love how the cars look invisible.



Sacre Coeur



Guess where this is.


From here, we met up with the g-rents for coffee, then proceeded to the Gare de Bércy (with difficulty due to a strike, of course) and onto our night train to Venizia... which WASN'T airconditioned, and where we accidently bought a 150 euro sub-par dinner for five. Super! Let's just say we weren't very happy travelers when we got to Venice in the morning.

Family Vacation: Avignon

Unfortunately, my family only had one day to spend in Provence, but I still got to show them around a bit.


This is O'Neill's Irish Pub, where we hung out ALL the time as the group or with my cousin. The first night, Rémy and I showed Jess around the ville a bit and then took her back to O'Neill's.



A few shots in the park across the street from the pub




We didn't quite know what was happening here... The guy in the faerie outfit and the girl in the pig suit kept getting random passersby to walk down the main street in Avignon on those two boards. I had to take a picture to show the rest of the group who'd already left.


From there, onto Paris!

Research Update: The Half-Way Mark

Alright, although I can't upload any photos (free wireless ≠ fast wireless), I'll just go ahead and give a brief word update. First off, I'm currently in Chantilly, after a serious transportation adventure.

Anyways, here's my transportation adventure (as edited from the REALLY long email I sent my grandparents/parents):

I managed to get to Lyon with no difficulty. I was even surprised by the fact that they gave us little sandwiches on the flight between Pisa and Lyon. The bus that Michel found for me to take from the airport to the train station by my hotel worked out great as well and even led to me meeting a really nice woman (and having a good half hour of conversation). So far, I've been very fortunate in meeting nice people. The woman on the bus is Lyonnaise, but lives in Seattle, where she teaches French (exactly what I want to do—I think—but the opposite), so we talked a about that and how it worked out for her (well) etc. The hotel in Lyon was nice and I've had no problems (if you don't count the lack of internet... I refused flat out to pay 12 euros an hour. What a rip off).

I ended up using the internet (for free) in the mall right next to the library. In fact, I'd forgotten that in France they don't have sales racks... instead, they have periods of "Soldes" or sales... which happened to start last week (therefore everything in the stores practically was on sale... up to 60% off... AMAZING). Thankfully for my budget, I didn't do any shopping. It's a bit hard to maneuver through sales racks with a rolling suitcase, a laptop bag, and a purse.

Unfortunately, on the way from Lyon to Dijon, by accident, I got on to the wrong train (right platform, wrong train) and ended up in Rouanne (You've never heard of Rouanne? Oh, good. Me either). I actually had to ask the guy ahead of me in line to show me where we were on the map of rail lines in France that is printed on the ticket holder. Thankfully, I eventually got to Dijon (3 hours later than I should have). In fact, it took me 6 hours total, during which time it would have been possible for me to have driven from Miramas to Dijon in the car with time to spare.

It was quite the adventure (as Michel kept reminded me when I talked to him on the phone), I ended up going from Rouanne to a gare called "Saint Germain au Mont d'Or," where there was literally no one. Literally no one. Ticket windows closed, all the screens were off/broken, and there was no one waiting (well, except the one nice guy who helped me carry my luggage and find the one working screen that told me at which quai my train would arrive). After he left, I was literally the only person in the train station. Then THAT train (the one that would take me from St. Germain to Dijon had a 30 minute delay. In the end, it wasn't too big a deal waiting for the train, as between calling the hotel to tell them I'd be super late, singing at the top of my lungs—since I was all alone—to music on my iPod and talking alternatively to my aunt and my cousin, the time passed rather quickly. I only had one quick scare when I thought I'd missed that train too. It was quite the adventure. At least the hotel in Dijon was awesome, it was really a little efficiency apartment. Too bad I only stayed one day or I could have done some cooking. Anyways, I was very happy when yesterday was over. I really did almost have a panic attack in the train station in Rouanne before talking to the really nice man working at the Chef d'Escale office in the gare who found me my new trains.

Dijon was lovely. I got lost finding the library (I didn't have a map), and again, lucky me, I met a really nice woman who actually walked me 10-15 minutes to the doors (even inside) the library to the library reception. At the library, I was a little disappointed with the manuscripts (one had all of "my" illuminations brutally cut out (i.e. slashed) from it and the other only had one illumination in the whole thing. On the other hand, the room in which I did the research was gorgeous. One doesn't find libraries like that in the States. It had vaulted stone ceilings and wooden bookcases lining the walls. I meant to take a photo, but I didn't have the chance. Furthermore, the librarian that I worked with (Mme Houlin) was wonderful. We had some interesting conversation and she was very easy to work with. I think the thing I like most in France is meeting (and discussing with) new people. Afterwards, she told me some interesting places to go, and I ventured over to the Place by the Palais des Ducs/Pays du Bourgogne/Hôtel de Ville de Dijon which was gorgeous. From what I was able to see today, Dijon looks like a really cool city. Kind of Parisien in its architecture, but smaller, with a lot of young people and interesting things to see. Hopefully I'll be able to spend some more time there one day.

Oh, you'd think the adventure about transportation would end after Dijon, but no, it doesn't (sorry this post is so long). The ride from Dijon to Paris was very pleasant, but, I get to Paris and have to switch train stations from Paris Gare de Lyon to Paris Gare de Nord. This wouldn't have been a problem (just get on the RER D and go straight between the two for a euro), except for the fact that there was a FIRE 5km outside of the Gare du Nord, so the RER D wasn't running. Again with my luck, I met a nice guy who took me on the Metro then RER A and dropped me off at the Gare du Nord... where I proceeded to stand around with 5 million people waiting for the trains to start running again. Then, when I arrived in Chantilly, I saw that my hotel was rather distant from the Gare, but, thankfully, the nice guy I met on that train (I've just noticed that most of these nice people have been men... maybe being a woman looking particularly lost looking helps here) took me over to the buses. There, the SNCF man directing the buses said that he'd just drop me off in his car (which he did). Very lucky, I am.

Beyond that, I've passed a very agreeable sejour in Chantilly. I researched Friday and then yesterday the library was closed, so I slept in, then walked into town and saw a movie ("Un jour, peut-être" / "Definitely, Maybe"), got hit on by a French man while writing in my journal ("If you're writing to Prince Charming, how will you ever get my address?" ....awkward), and then ate a nice lunch on a terrasse looking over the main street. All in all an agreeable day. Then, to top it off, I spent the night talking to Katy on Skype. Lovely.

Now, I'm going to leave for the train station here in a bit. Last city = Paris. For 6 nights. Then I get to go home and do laundry. And sleep in my bed. I.CANT.WAIT. Sink laundry is pretty much annoying.

27 June 2008

Family Time

So, I had grand plans about uploading a ton of photos today. That didn't happen. This wireless connection takes a million years.
I guess we'll just see what I can do, eh?

My grandparents, my dad and my sister came to visit from the States. We went on vacation in Paris, Venice and then Florence... before all that, we picked them up (5 hours late, thanks Delta!) from the airport in Marignane (Marseille) and then had dinner with the family in Miramas before caravanning off to Avignon for the night. Here are some candids I took at our big dinner:


Grandma and Dad



Sabine (who isn't actually family, but helps out around the house and was a LIFESAVER that day) and Tatie-Fine, Marie-T's aunt)



Grandpa and Jean-Pierre. If you want to really wade through the confusing swamp of how I'm related to my family in France, the essential to know is that my grandpa and JP are cousins.



Jessica and my Aunt Margurite (who is 99).



me and my aunt. We took several photos and they were all horrible. Thus, this will be the one chosen as it shows the amazing food and the alcohol that we were drinking (which is probably to blame for the terrible photos)


Okay, I really hate this interenet connection. No more photos today, folks.

25 June 2008

Je suis bien, tout va bien, je suis gaie, tout me plaît...

Alrighty, apparently in European hotels, the internet is a luxury. As such, I did not update at all from Italy or Paris and I would not be updating from Lyon if the mall didnt have free wireless. It's kind of getting irksome really.

Anyways, as I imagine that you can deduce, I am in Lyon. Well, for the next 2 hours (then I leave for one night in Dijon). I would like to start this post by mentioning how annoying it is to have my laptop bag, my purse and my wheeling suitcase with me in the mall (or anywhere really). Especially today, where, if I weren't encumbered by all of this crap, I'd be doing some serious shopping as it is the first day of the soldes. In France, one doesn't really find sales racks. Instead, several times (2?) a year, during the same three or four days, all of the stores have "soldes" or sales where everything is on sale more or less. Today would be day one of this cycle. How I wish I didn't have stuff to lug around (though it is for the best with my wallet).

Vacation was good. I would have prefered to have seen more of the museums etc, but we didn't make reservations/I didn't feel like going alone, so that didn't happen too much. I really only got to see the museums in Venice, but it's okay. I'll go back to Florence someday and I'll be in Paris all next week.

I think being together with your family for 10 straight days is a little intense. After the "oh I missed you guys so much I haven't seen you in forever!" wore off, we all began to get on each other's nerves. Still, it was an enjoyable time and I did manage to learn a few words of italian: Grazie! Prego! Ciao! No parlo italiano (Parla francese? anglese?), buena suerte (sp?), bongiorno etc. I'm now trilingual, obviously.

I think Venice was my favorite city. There really is no other place like it. Our hotel was right on the Grande Canal next to the Rialto bridge and from its "Panoramic Terrace" I could see all the gondolas/boats/etc. Very cool.

Florence was hot, which is scary because its high was 32 and it's currently 34 (according to Rémy) in Avignon. SOOOO, I might die. Just saying. In Florence, I also almost picked up a new Italian boyfriend (i.e. the cute guy at the slushie place who was a big fan of me), but unfortunately, we had to leave. Oh well (just kidding). I have decided though that, if possible, Italian men are even more vocal than the French ones, but they are, for some reason, less sketchy at the same time.

As for my research, I finished with my first library (4 manuscripts) this afternoon. After two days, I can tell you that after two weeks, I may or may not hate manuscripts. Well, not hate them, but they'll be like Venetian masks to me for awhile (after 3 days in Venice, you will swear if you never see a mask again in your life, it'll be okay... they're everywhere). I don't anticipate having any problems with the libraries until I get to Paris (possibly) because one library told me my manuscripts might be out on loan to Johns Hopkins, another told me that you can only see the originals under exceptional circumstances, and the third didn't tell me anything at all. I guess we'll see. If not, at least I'll see the Musée d'Orsay, be able to meet Em's friend Marion, and see Ami and Steph.

Not going to lie, I'd like nothing more than to just go back to Miramas, do laundry, and sleep. This whole being completely alone thing gets old quick. Though, last night I did go to the movies. That was fun. First time I've really watched (Cloverfield didn't count, I wasn't really paying attention) a movie dubbed in French. Thankfully it wasn't too odd and I understood most of it. :-)

Okay, well, I should go. Verne has 14 minutes left of batter and I have about an hour and half until my train to Dijon, so I'm going to go find some food.

Photos later (when I have more battery and internet at the same time)

15 June 2008

I'm leaving for Paris

Current song: "Leaving for Paris" -Rufus Wainwright. If you don't know it, check it out. It's in my head right now.

Anyways, my family arrived safely (if not late) on Friday. Translating is very tiring, but doable. We had a tapas-like dinner with my family here in Miramas and then made our way to the hotel in Avignon. It's apparently one of the two nicest hotels in the city, it's very pretty. Though, I do have to admit, it's very odd sleeping in a hotel when my "house" is so close.

Friday night, took Jess out with Rémy. We did a night walking tour of the city and then stopped to have drinks at the pub. I was pleasantly surprised/impressed with the fact that Rémy speaks English REALLY well.

Today, we're leaving for Paris (in an hour). I haven't really been to Paris since I was 8, so I'm looking forward to it.

I'll post pictures later.

PS- I was amused yesterday: In walking around the city with Jessica and Dad, we managed to run into one of my remaining friends in Avignon (who actually lives here), Marie. Avignon = small town, even when I only have 4 friends here, I still see them. Love it.

06 June 2008

Presque la fin.

Wine comes in at the mouth
And love comes in at the eye;
That’s all we shall know for truth
Before we grow old and die.
I lift the glass to my mouth,
I look at you, and I sigh.

-W. B. Yeats, "A Drinking Song"

A brief repose before my day of what I hope will be a lot of cleaning. After 20 years of life, I've come to terms with the fact that however much I might wish to be an organised person concerning my living space, that will never happen. Inevitably, the day after my straightening endeavor, my room/desk will once again be a train wreck. This is interesting as I am actually very organised when you look at my calender or my computer. I like to know things in advance and have my time/days organised, but my room? apparently an impossible feat. As such, I have lots to do before I leave here next week, and, as I am going away who-knows-where for the weekend with Michel, I should probably start that today.

I've also noticed that I've managed to accumulate a lot of things in this country in the past two-ish months, I know you're surprised. Not counting the things that will be staying here for when I come back (bike, tent, sleeping bag etc), I've definitely bought books and clothing type things, and Michel bought me a bunch of travel books (which will also be staying at the house) . Still, packing all this up is going to be a feat of epic proportions. At least moving from Avignon to Miramas will be able to serve as a trial run for the "Big Pack," if you will, in two and a half months, but I REALLY don't want to think about that or leaving just yet. Right now, I'm just looking forward to moving "home" (or the closest thing I have here) to Miramas and my family's arrival in a week.

It's hard to believe that the end of the official program is Tuesday. It's gone by so fast. I'm very fortunate to be staying the summer, because if not, I would be a whole pile of sad right now. I'm just not ready for it to be over. Yes, I miss everyone in the States and certain aspects of America, but I am not ready to leave here. I feel like I've just settled in, made my friends, and gotten a decent grip on being myself in a foreign language—I'm definitely not ready to give that up. Honestly, I'm even a little sad that this is my last weekend en Provence until the beginning of June. Being away for a whole month right now seems like an eternity. I'd really like to be here for the parties my friends are going to have and the stuff they're going to do while I'm gone. It's a bizarre feeling because the next time I leave here, it will be for two years (or less, if I come visit soon like I hope).

I think, for me, the worst part of this trip and the best part are the same, honestly: I've fallen in love with France, a bit. I was really hoping this wouldn't be the case. Coming here and not being very impressed or not really assimilating into the culture over here would have made my life so much easier. As it is, I really do love my life over here (and in the US too). I've gotten close to my family, made some good friends, almost met someone who would have been important in another fashion, found things I love about the culture here etc. This is great, really, but the problem from now on, I feel, is that I'm always going to be missing something. Here, I miss my family in the States, my amazing friends, Athens, Chipotle, take-away coffee, mexican food, 4-way stops, turning right on red, the stores and products I'm familiar with, knowing the customs, easy communication, and the dollar. When I come home, I'm going to miss my family here (especially my cousin), my new friends here, the bread, pain au chocolate, wine, cheese, three hour meals, speaking French all the time, driving to new places all the time, the pace of life, etc. It sounds like a trivial problem, probably, but I feel like it's definitely going to be a dilemma in the years to come.

Anyways, that is currently on the list (with my departure) of things I don't currently want to think about. Right now, we're all just trying to live in the moment and enjoy what time we have left. A lot like what we're supposed to do with life in general.

And now, time to attack the pit that is my bedroom. Good to know that some things never change.


Cait, Amanda and Grace on the terrace of one of our favorite bars "Red Sky" on Place Pie



Kristin and me at Red Sky too. I'm drinking a Kreik, which is an amazing cherry beer. Seriously, so good.

04 June 2008

Sending out an SOS

Voilà, a few photos from The Police in concert at the Stade Vélodrome in Marseille last night. Unfortunately they were taken on my cell phone, so they arn't the highest quality and the sound on the videos I took is horrible, so I won't even post them.

Regardless, it was a LOT of fun. I'd forgotten how enjoyable it is to hear a concert in one's native language because I can understand what they're saying even if I didn't know the lyrics of the song before hand. It was adorable though because Sting spoke decent French (Apparently he has a house in the Var, a region not far from here). It was admirable.

Also, we were very lucky because yesterday it was very nice (weather-wise) here in Provence (My english is really failing me as all I could think to say here is "faisait beau" and I think my sentence structure there is foutu/shot). Thankfully. For once, no rain. Currently, Provence is seeing more rain than it has at this time of the year in 60 years. It's insane.


La Foule. I believe there were 50,000 people there for the concert in the Vélodrome. Though, when Sting first tried to talk to the crowd (in French) he told the 50 people in the audience to show them their hands (to clap).



Lots of people.



We were right in front of the screen and the barrier between the crowd and the stage. Very good placement. Especially since we didnt get there till 20h30 (a half hour after the concert started). Oh traffic in Marseille (it took us THREE hours to get from Miramas to Marseille. RI-DI-CULE!



Such a good view. And, what's more, we were so close to the barrier that when security came around handing out cups to give out water, we got some. Very nice.



Yes, that's Sting. The beard really ages him though. Isabelle and I stayed up this close for about half the concert, before going to find Michel (who was by the side barrier so he had something to lean against. Thankfully I was able to sit on the barrier and be approximately at his level, if not, I wouldn't have been able to see anything from there.



Voilà a close-up of Sting on the screen



And again. I'm not a huge fan of the beard, myself. But he's awesome anyways. He played a really old bass that you could tell he's had forever. I really thought that was cool, he was into what is comfortable/sounds good versus being super flashy with a new expensive guitar (which I'm sure he also owns somewhere).

02 June 2008

Another year older, folks.

So, I'm another year older. Goodbye teenager-ness (at last).

Since my actual birthday was on Thursday (Michel had to work), I just hung out with some people from the program at Amanda's house and drank some wine. The real celebration had to wait for the weekend.

After I got back from the overnight in Marseille/Cassis, Michel threw a big fête for me at his house in Eyragues with a lot of his (and now my) friends (plus Care who came with me, and took all these photos).

Then, yesterday, after cleaning up the house, we went to the house in Miramas to celebrate again (and rest up for the Manu Chao concert that we went to last night).

Definitely a very good birthday.


Rémy and me in the DJ tente. As the theme of the party was camping, they went all out. The music stuff went in this tent, they put down fake grass. Anyways, this was take two of me with Mr. DJ.



This would be what we call a cucaracha (aka a shot that you light on fire). It's obviously on fire when you drink it, but you can get the job done with a straw.



Rémy and his cucaracha-ing. I love these two photos with the fire and the lighting. Well done, Care.



Birthday cake! Cédric bought a mille feuille (type of pastry) cake. Very delicious, if hard to eat.



Opening presents! This would be a camel bak(like a backpack that you put water—or other beverages—in). Apparently I'm becoming nature girl this summer.



A glimpse of the setup. Michel used to work in sound/lighting so he has all the speakers and lights etc. Very very cool. When he said party, he meant party.



Clean-up the morning after. This would be Michel trying to fold up the tent that the DJ stuff had been in. I believe that it's the main tent that we have that all our other tents hook onto. It's a "2 second" tent. That really means that it takes two seconds to throw it and set it up, and 5 hours to fold it back up. I got my own one of these for my birthday. As it's a camping party, our friends all gave me camping stuff for this summer (eg. backpack, sleeping bag, camelback, lantern etc). Anyways, this is me being very amused as Michel tries to plier the tent.



Look! Success! For once, I feel that this facial expression is warranted.



Birthday flowers from Claire et Cédric



Birthday cake number two with the family on Sunday. Very yummy. Not sure what kind of cake it was. Notice the little frog and pig on there. Kind of a joke as the french get called both.



A short selection of the sequence of Michel trying to use my camera (first without then with flash) as I try to show him what to do. For someone who operates highly technical machinery, he did have a bit of difficulty. This would be the "annoyed give me the camera, mon cher, photo"



Michel remarked on how he has a photo of me amused then annoyed and then I laughed. The whole gamut.



Birfday present: Gorgeous necklace/bracelet combo, see following photo



Me + Presents + Cake



Blowing out the candles. No tricks here.



Me and my "aunt" Maïté



Apparently being super photogenic runs in the family (my "uncle" Jean-Pierre).



Mamie (Maïté's mom) and Tatie (Maïté's aunt), (Mamie i.e. Marguerite was sleeping)